The biologically-active form of Vitamin C is L-Ascorbic Acid. It is a potent antioxidant that plays numerous roles in skin care and skin health including protecting against photoaging, increasing collagen synthesis, stabilizing collagen fibers and decreasing collagen degradation. Vitamin C decreases melanin formation and reduces pigmentation making the skin tone appear more even and brighter. Vitamin C also replenishes Vitamin E and works synergistically with Vitamin E to protect against oxidative damage.
Vitamin C Is A Natural Component Of Healthy Skin
Vitamin C is a natural component of healthy skin and is the most abundant antioxidant in human skin. However, humans are unable to synthesize Vitamin C and rely on dietary intake of Vitamin C to maintain healthy levels in the body. When we’re young, vitamin C levels in skin’s primary layers, the epidermis, or outer layer, and the dermis, the middle layer, are abundant. As we age, Vitamin C levels in the skin naturally deplete and the skin becomes less able to store vitamin C from foods and oral supplements. Unprotected sun exposure (UV damage) and pollution accelerate this decline, leading to skin looking dull, uneven, and less firm.
Fortunately, topically-applied Vitamin C solutions and oral intake supplementation can help mitigate this damage, so skin looks and feels healthier, not to mention being in a better position to repair visible damage. Vitamin C, along with Retinol, are two of the most important and beneficial skin care active ingredients you can use to help mitigate photo-aging.
Vitamin C In Your Skin Care Routine
A topically-applied Vitamin C Serum is an excellent product to address dull and uneven skin tone, fine lines, wrinkles, and lax skin. Because it is such a powerful antioxidant, Vitamin C provides a strong defense against environmental stressors (including sun damage), which all of us will see visible signs of as we age. The biologically-active form of Vitamin C is L-Ascorbic Acid and there are numerous serums available from several companies that use L-Ascorbic Acid in their products. Vitamin C Serum can be applied daily, or even twice daily.
The most effective level of L-Ascorbic Acid in a serum is in the range 15% to 20%. This high level is required as L-Ascorbic Acid does not readily penetrate the epidermis and is the amount required to get a sufficient level of L-Ascrobic Acid actually in the skin. Since L-Ascorbic Acid is actually an acid, the pH of Vitamin C serums tend to be in the range 2.5 to 3.5. It is most common that the initial applications of a Vitamin C serum containing L-Ascorbic Acid will result is a tingling sensation, the skin acclimates to the serum within a couple of weeks after initial use.
Vitamin C Benefits For Skin
Vitamin C’s benefits for skin are numerous, including its ability to even out skin tone by suppressing melanin formation and diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen formation. Research shows Vitamin C can shield skin from the visible impacts of environmental stressors such as solar radiation, pollution and smoking, including UV-induced free radical damage.
Aside from its antiaging and photoprotective effects, vitamin C is also known to be the primary replenisher of vitamin E. Vitamin E is a liphophilic antioxidant and has a primary role in protecting cell membranes against oxidative stress and maintaining the collagen network in the skin. Similar to vitamin C, its levels are rapidly depleted after UV exposure.
Forms Of Vitamin C
Since L-Ascorbic Acid is quite unstable in cosmetic products containing water, many variants of Vitamin C as an ingredient for skin care products have been developed and formulation techniques to help stabilize L-Ascorbic Acid in products. While all variants of Vitamin C have antioxidant benefits, each works slightly differently and must undergo a conversion in the skin into L-Ascorbic Acid to be biologically-active. However, while more stable, none are as effective as L-Ascorbic Acid.
L-Ascorbic Acid: Vitamin C in the form of L-ascorbic acid is the most researched form of Vitamin C. When properly formulated at a pH of less than 3.5 and used in concentrations of 15% to 20%, this form helps create younger-looking, firmer-feeling skin while fading signs of uneven skin tone and spots. L-Ascorbic acid also helps skin’s surface defend itself from free radicals and external stressors, lessening the effects of exposure to the elements.
3-O Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a modified form of vitamin C that’s highly stabilized and is both water-soluble and oil-soluble. Benefits include brightening and evening skin tone, soothing skin, and boosting elasticity by neutralizing stressors that would otherwise damage skin’s supportive elements.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a lipid (fat) soluble form of vitamin C, which is backed by research for its ability to mitigate damaging effects of UV exposure. Some researchers theorize it has a greater affinity for skin because its fatty acid component helps aid penetration
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate promotes deeper hydration in skin but is not as potent of an antioxidant as pure vitamin C. Still, it’s considered one of the more stable forms of this antioxidant. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a form of vitamin C with research showing it can influence factors linked to breakouts, likely due to its skin soothing effect.