Skin Elasticity: How To Regain Elasticity In Your Skin to Reduce Fine Lines And Wrinkles
Elasticity is your skin’s ability to stretch and bounce back into place. Our skin’s elasticity is what gives us plump, firm, taut, healthy-looking skin. As skin loses its elasticity, it starts to sag and wrinkle.
Our skin is most elastic is when we’re young and slowly decreases as we age. While it’s inevitable that your skin will lose elasticity as you get older, there are ways you can slow the process.
What Is Skin Elasticity?
Our skin is comprised of three distinct layers as it affects elasticity. The epidermis is the outermost layer, the dermis is the middle layer, and the hypodermis is the innermost layer. In the middle layer, the dermis, our skin contains two primary proteins, collagen and elastin, that provide elasticity and structure to the skin. Collagen and elastin form fibrils that are interwoven into a matrix that supports the skin. Elastin is able to stretch and recoil, like a rubber band and is primarily responsible for the skin’s elasticity. Collagen’s primary role is to provide structure, strength and support to the skin.
Elastin is comprised of the amino acids proline, glycine, desmosine and isodesmosine. Collagen is comprised of amino acids proline, hydroxyproline, glycine and arginine.
What Causes Loss of Elasticity?
Loss of skin elasticity is a natural part of the aging process as your cells produce reduced amounts of both collagen and elastin. The reduction in the production of collagen and elastin begins in your 20’s and 30’s and by the time women reach menopause the total collagen/elastin production will decrease by 30%. Environmental factors, particularly UV exposure, can accelerate the degredation of both collagen and elastin.
UV Exposure and Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs)
Both collagen and elastin are proteins that are responsible for providing your skin with firm structure and elasticity, respectively. Proteinases are enzymes that cleave and degrade proteins. MMPs are the primary enzymes that are involved in the degredation of collagen and elastin and cause skin to lose the integrity of the extracellular matrix. The result is skin that sags and the expression of fine lines and wrinkles. Unprotected exposure to UV (sunlight) stimulates the formation of MMPs and other reactive oxygen species (ROS) that degrade collagen and elastin through a cascade of biochemical reactions. Simultaneously, our natural production of hyaluronic acid also decreases with age, so the skin appears less plump.
How To Improve The Elasticity Of Your Skin
Sunscreen
Using a Broad Spectrum, SPF 30+, PA+++ rated sunscreen daily is an essential to improving the elasticity of your skin. As explained earlier, unprotected UV exposure can stimulate the formation of MMP enzymes and ROS (free radicals) that are going to degrade both collagen and elastin. However, the effectiveness of even the best sunscreen at blocking UV rays is approximately 55%, so it is essential to combine use of a sunscreen with other skincare ingredients that stimulate the production of collagen and elastin.
GHK-Cu Tripeptide
Copper Tripeptide-1, or GHK-Cu is a small, naturally occurring tripeptide that is present in human plasma and is involved in the skin regeneration process. GHK-Cu has a beneficial effect on the skin fibroblasts that synthesize structural elements of the dermal matrix (collagen and elastin), but also produce a wide range of growth factors essential for skin repair. Topically applied cosmetic products containing GHK-Cu have been found to increase cell viability 12.5-fold, production of the basic fibroblast growth factor (bFGF), 230%, and collagen synthesis 70%
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid is an essential component of the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM) that includes both collagen and elastin. As we age, our natural production of hyaluronic acid decreases and causes the skin to be less hydrated and plump, further exacerbating the visual effects of degradation of collagen and elastin. Hyaluronic Acid is available in a range of molecular weights, but only Hyaluronic Acid with a molecular weight of 100 kDa or less is able to penetrate the epidermis (the outer layer of skin) into the dermis (the middle layer) which is where collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid reside in the skin. Higher molecular weight of hyaluronic acid will sit on the surface of the skin forming a film to help reduce Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) or evaporation of moisture through the skin. The reduction of TEWL is beneficial for keeping the skin hydrated. To be most effective, particularly as it relates to skin hydration and plumpness, make sure the products you purchase contain both oligo hyaluronic acid (< 10 kDa) combined with a higher molecular weight hyaluronic acid to get the benefits of internal hydration and reduction of TEWL.
Retinol
Skincare products containing retinol and retinoids have been proven to promote collagen production and reverse some of the signs of aging. Retinol has been shown to improve and normalize the cell renewal process and enhance collagen production. As the skin regenerates more efficiently when using Retinol, it grows thicker and simultaneously becomes more elastic. This reduces wrinkles and lines in number, area, length and width. Retinol has been shown to improve skin elasticity when combined with vitamin C.
Vitamin C
The biologically-active form of Vitamin C is L-Ascorbic Acid. It is a potent antioxidant that plays numerous roles in skin care and skin health including protecting against photoaging, increasing collagen synthesis, stabilizing collagen fibers and decreasing collagen degradation. Vitamin C decreases melanin formation and reduces pigmentation making the skin tone appear more even and brighter. Vitamin C also replenishes Vitamin E and works synergistically with Vitamin E to protect against oxidative damage.
Collagen/Elastin Topical Creams
Don’t bother. The collagen and elastin typically contained in topical creams generally contain collagen and elastin molecules that are too large to penetrate the epidermis into the dermis. Additionally, collagen and elastin in the skin are biosynthesized from the component amino acids and externally applied collagen and elastin will simply not integrate into the ECM. Ingredients such as retinol, vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) and GHK-Cu Tripeptide catalyze the biological processes that lead to the biosynthesis of native collagen and elastin in the dermis.