How To Analyze A Cosmetic Product Like A Professional Cosmetic Chemist

Understanding the various functional components of a cosmetic product can be useful in helping you determine the relative effectiveness of competitive products you may be considering using.  With some practice and research on ingredients, you’ll soon be able to evaluate products for their effectiveness with the expertise of a cosmetic formulation chemist.

Here’s the List Of Ingredients for a commercial moisturizer:

Water, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Dimethicone, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Chrysanthemum Parthenium (Feverfew) Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Ceramide NP, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Apply The 1% Rule

First, applying the 1% Rule, we can identify Phenoxyethanol as the marker ingredient denoting the 1% line.  All ingredients that appear before Phenoxyethanol are included at 1% or greater and all ingredients that appear after Phenoxyethanol are included at 1% or less.

Generally, the ingredients above the 1% line are the ingredients that are either Functional, Emollients and Structural Ingredients, so focus your attention on Functional Ingredients and Emollients above the 1% Line as these are the ingredients actually affecting the appearance of your skin.

But, select Functional Ingredients such as Retinol, Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramides are effective at less than 1% inclusion and are generally appear below the 1% Line.

Categorize Ingredients By Function

Now, let’s go through the List Of Ingredients from the beginning and categorize each individual ingredient as Functional, Structural/Aesthetic, Emollients, Preservative, Label.

Functional Ingredients are those that have an effect on the skin and include Humectants, Exfoliants, Skin Protectants:

Glycerin (Humectant), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Emollient & Moisturizer), Dimethicone (Skin Protectant), Allantoin (Skin Protectant), Ceramide NP (Barrier Integrity), Eucaplyptus Globulus Leaf Oil (Stimulates Ceramide Synthesis)

Structural/Aesthetic Ingredients are those that are required to establish the form/format of the product and include emulsifiers, thickeners and aesthetic polymers:

Stearic Acid (Emulsifier/Thickener), Glyceryl Stearate (Emulsifier), Glyceryl Stearate SE (Emulsifier), Cetearyl Alcohol (Fatty Alcohol Thickener), Xanthan Gum (Thickener, Emulsion Stabilizer), Sodium Hydroxide (pH Adjuster)

Emollients are ingredients that are included to smooth and soften the skin and typically are oils and butters:

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Dimethicone, Butyspermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Squalane

Preservatives, Preservative Boosters, Chelating Agents ensure that the cosmetic product is safe for use and does not become microbially-contaminated during use:

Phenoxyethanol (Preservativel, Caprylyl Glycol (Preservative Booster), Disodium EDTA (Chelating Agent)

Label Ingredients are included in small quantities in the product primarily for the purposes of supporting the marketing story.  Generally, plant extracts are the most commonly used Label Ingredients in cosmetic products.

Chrysanthemum Parthenium (Feverfew) Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

The Brand’s marketing language focuses on these features and benefits, without mention of the Label Ingredients:

Key Benefits:

  • Butters and waxes deliver intense hydration with no petrolatum or greasy after-feel
  • The formula has been scientifically tested to more than double hydration immediately upon application

Clinical Studies

  • 169% immediate improvement in skin hydration
  • 100% reported a lasting improvement in skin dryness
  • 100% found that the product helped soothe, moisturize and condition skin

The following List Of Ingredients would yield an equally effective product without the Label Ingredients:

Water, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Dimethicone, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Ceramide NP, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil