The human peptide GHK (glycyl-L-hisidyl-L-lysine) has multiple biological actions including increased collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycan synthesis and support of the function of dermal fibroblasts. GHK is a small copper-binding peptide, GHK-Cu, that occurs naturally in human plasma that can also be released from tissues in the event of an injury.
As such, it is a powerful protective and regenerative ingredient that is demonstrated to:
• Tighten loose skin and reverse thinning of aged skin
• Repair protective skin barrier proteins
• Improve skin firmness, elasticity, and clarity
• Reduce fine lines, depth of wrinkles, and improve structure of aged skin
• Smooth rough skin
• Reduce photodamage, mottled hyperpigmentation, skin spots and lesions
• Improve overall skin appearance
• Stimulate wound healing
• Protect skin cells from UV radiation
• Reduce inflammation and free radical damage
The mechanism of GHK-Cu is its ability to up-regulate and down-regulate a significant number of human genes and its ability to bind copper. GHK may be an early signal for skin repair through its stimulation of synthesis of collagen, select glycosaminoglycans and proteoglycan decorin. GHK has a demonstrated beneficial effect on skin fibroblasts that are key cells in the skin regeneration process. Fibroblasts synthesize structural elements of the dermal matrix and produce a wide range of growth factors essential for skin repair. GHK has been shown to increase cell viability by 12.5-fold, increase basic fibroblast growth factor by 230% and collagen synthesis by 70%.
Cosmetic Application of GHK-Cu Products
A number of clinical studies have confirmed GHK-Cu’s ability to improve the appearance of ageing skin:
• A facial cream containing GHK-Cu applied for 12 weeks to the facial skin of 71 women with mild to advanced signs of photoaging increased skin density and thickness, reduced laxity, improved clarity, reduced fine lines and the depth of wrinkles
• A GHK-Cu eye cream applied for 12 weeks to around-the-eye area of 41 women with mild to advanced photodamage performed better than placebo and vitamin K cream. It reduced lines and wrinkles, improved overall appearance, and increased skin density and thickness
• GHK-Cu applied to thigh skin for 12 weeks improved collagen production in 70% of the women treated, in contrast to 50% treated with the vitamin C cream, and 40% treated with retinoic acid
• In addition to improving skin laxity, clarity, firmness and appearance, reducing fine lines, coarse wrinkles and mottled pigmentation, and increasing skin density and thickness, GHK-Cu cream applied twice daily for 12 weeks also strongly stimulated dermal keratinocyte proliferation
• A pilot study for topical application of copper tripeptide complexes in aged skin confirmed an increase in skin thickness in the range of the epidermis and dermis, improved skin hydration, a significant smoothing of the skin by stimulating collagen synthesis, increased skin elasticity, a significant improvement in skin contrast and an increased production of collagen 1.
• The effects of GHK-Cu were also investigated in a randomised, double–blind clinical trial. Female volunteers applied GHK-Cu, encapsulated in nano-lipid carrier twice a day in the course of 8 weeks using either carrier alone or the commercially available peptide Matrixyl® 3000 as controls. Compared to Matrixyl® 3000, GHK-Cu produced a 31.6% reduction of wrinkle volume. Compared to control serum, GHK-Cu reduced wrinkle volume 55.8% and wrinkle depth 32.8%
GHK-Cu is an exception anti-aging skin care ingredient that is very safe to use in topically-applied cosmetic products.