SKIINCARE ROUTINE ESSSENTIAL ELEMENTS:
1. Cleanser
2. Moisturizer/Hydration Serum/Barrier Repair Serum
3. Vitamin C Serum
4. Retinol Serum
5. Sunscreen
6. Exfoliation Solutions
CLEANSER
Cleansers have a singular, simple purpose to remove oils, dirt and debris from the skin. The most basic cleanser is comprised of a blend of surfactants, preservatives and refatting agents. Surfactants used in cleansers are a mixture of anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants. Anionic surfactants have the highest detergency, but are also the harshest on the skin. They are most often blended with amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants to reduce the irritation of the anionic surfactants.
The other common component of a good facial cleanser is a refatting agent. Refatting agents are generally oils or long-chain fatty acids that prevent dehydration of the skin from cleansing. A cleanser that does not contain a refatting agent will give that squeeky-clean, stripped feeling after rinsing as most all of the skin biofilm and oils have been removed by the cleanser.
Here are some common ingredients found in a facial cleanser:
Anionic Surfactants: Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate
Amphoteric Surfactants: Coco Betaine, Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Non-Ionic Surfactants: Coco Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside
Refatting Agents: Glyceryl Oleate, Sucrose Cocoate, Hydroxypropyl Bis-Hydroxyethyldimonium Chloride
Use a pH-Balanced Cleanser
Finally, you’ll want to use a pH-balanced to slightly acidic cleanser with a pH of 4.5 to 5.2 since the lower pH cleanser will be less harsh on your skin and the skin acid mantle recovers more rapidly from an acidic pH assault as opposed to a basic pH assault. So, you’ll look for acidic pH adjusters like Lactic Acid or Citric Acid to lower the pH of the cleanser.
That’s it! Look for a simple cleanser containing a proper blend of surfactants, refatting agents, acidic pH adjusters, preservative and thickener. You’ll see numerous other ingredients in cleansers such as plant extracts, superfood fruit extracts and others, but these are all label ingredients for marketing and are simply rinsed down the drain. On average, a person cleanses for 20 seconds, so there is not sufficient time for any of these ingredients, except the surfactants and refatting agents, to have any effect on the skin.
MOISTURIZER
A good moisturizer is perhaps the most important skin care product you can purchase as moisturizers play a critical role in maintaining water homeostasis in your skin and a healthy skin barrier. The primary components of a good moisturizer are Humectants to draw water to the skin; Occlusive film formers to prevent transepidermal water loss; Emollients/Lipids to keep the skin soft and supple and Barrier Repair components to maintain a healthy skin barrier.
Contrary to common belief, moisturizers do not add moisture to your skin per se, but help attract/retain water and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Transepidermal water loss, which is a natural evaporation of water from the skin, is the main reason your skin becomes dehydrated and dry.
A good moisturizer can provide multiple benefits to your skin: Reduction in dry, itchy skin, skin irritation, fine lines and wrinkles; Improved skin elasticity, translucency, wound healing and barrier function.
Humectants are compounds that draw water to, and help retain, water in the skin. Commonly used humectants in moisturizers are Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Urea, Betaine, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate and Amino Acids. These humectants are part of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factors, which are a collection of compounds that bind water in the skin keeping it hydrated.
Occlusives are ingredients that form a film barrier on the skin helping to reduce transepidermal water loss. Commonly used occlusives are Petrolatum (and natural Petrolatum alternatives), Dimethicone, High Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid, Cupuacu Butter.
Emollients/Lipids help keep the skin soft and supple. These can include most any rapidly absorbing carrier oil such as Sunflower Seed Oil and Squalane, but more advanced emollients include Isostearyl Isostearate, Ceramide II + Sterols + Cholesterol.
Epiderrmal Lipid Stimulants are ingredients that stimulate the synthesis of epidermal lipids and include Niacinamide, L-Lactic Acid and Sunflower Seed Oil Unsaponifiables and help strengthen the epidermal lipid barrier.
Aquaporin 3 Stimulants is a very advanced approach to skin moisturization. The discovery of Aquaporins won a Nobel Prize in the early 2000s. Aquaporins are compounds that regulate moisture content and glycerin transport in skin providing for intracellular moisturization. Aquaporin 3 stimulants include Caffeine, Salicornea Herbacea Extract and Dioctanoyl Isosorbide.
Vitamin C Serum
Vitamin C is a potent, naturally-occurring antioxidant and is the most plentiful antioxidant in human skin as part of a group of enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants that protect the skin from reactive oxygen species (ROS) or free radicals from UV (sun) exposure. L-Ascorbic Acid is the biologically active form of the molecule. Humans cannot synthesize L-Ascorbic Acid and must consume it from citrus fruits and leafy green vegetables. However, L-Ascorbic Acid must be applied topically to the skin to prevent and treat changes associated with photoageing and hyperpigmentation. L-Ascorbic Acid is water-soluble, but chemically unstable and degrades rapidly when exposed to light, water and oxygen.
Antioxidant
The exposure of skin to UV generates free radicals that start a cascade of reactions that can alter the cellular DNA, membrane, proteins and, most importantly, collagen. The free radicals also contribute to inflammation, skin ageing and changes in skin elasticity. Antioxidants, such as Vitamin C and Vitamin E neutralize free radicals generated from UV exposure. Vitamin C and Vitamin E work together to protect the hydrophilic and lipophilic components of the cell from free radical induced damage.
Collagen Biosynthesis
Vitamin C is essential for collagen biosynthesis and it has been shown that topically applied Vitamin C increases collagen production in aged human skin. But, Vitamin C is also a multi-tasking molecule that is very effective in resolving hyperpigmentation or sun spots. It does so by interrupting melanin synthesis.
Vitamin C’s multitasking effects on the skin as a powerful antioxidant protecting the skin from free radical damage, stimulating collagen synthesis, fading hyperpigmentation and evening skin tone, reducing inflammation makes it an essential ingredient in any, and all, skin care routines.
Vitamin C Serums
Vitamin C Serums made with L-Ascorbic Acid are most effective if formulated with 15% L-Ascorbic Acid combined with Vitamin E as Vitamin E potentiates the effect of Vitamin C 4-fold and Vitamin C plays a role in the regeneration of Vitamin E. Another combination, of Vitamin C, tyrosine and zinc has been shown to increase the bioavailability of Vitamin C 20-fold. Vitamin C Serum is best applied prior to sun exposure and in conjunction with a sunscreen to reduce the effects of UV sun exposure.
Another form of Vitamin C, Tetrahexadecyl Ascorbate, is oil soluble and has better penetration into the epidermis than L-Ascorbic Acid. In addition, Tetrahexadecyl Ascorbate is a stable molecule, so it offers some advantages over L-Ascorbic Acid in that it does not degrade nearly as quickly giving products a much longer shelf life.
Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) Serum can cause some irritation when you first begin using it, but your skin should acclimate to it over a few weeks. In the event you experience continued irriration with an L-Ascorbic Acid Serum, switch to one using Tetrahexadecyl Ascorbate.
RETINOL
Retinol is a form of Vitamin A and is perhaps the most studied of all cosmetic ingredients. Retinol is a powerful multitasking anti-aging ingredient that increases skin cell production (proliferation). Retinol also exfoliates your skin by promoting cell turnover, can lighten hyperpigmentation, improve skin tone, helps unclog pores and increases collagen production, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, giving your skin a fresher, plump appearance.
Retinol penetrates into a skin cell’s interior and binds to an appropriate receptor binding protein triggering the secretion of growth factors. These growth factors are responsible for proliferation of the living layer of the epidermis, strengthening of the protective function of epidermis and reduction in excessive transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Retinol also protects against degradation of collagen and inhibit activity of enzymes that break down collagen.
Retinol can cause some irritation, redness and peeling of skin when used for the first time. It is best to start slowing when introducing retinol into your skin care regimen, using a product with a low percentage of retinol perhaps twice a week to gauge how your skin reacts and then gradually increasing to application every other day.
The most common form of Vitamin A used in skin care products is Retinol, but there are other variants that are designed to mimic the amazing anti-aging effects of retinol without the side effects of irritation. Bakuchiol is a naturally-derived analog of retinol that does not cause significant skin irritation. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is a synthetic ester of retinol designed to provide the benefits of retinol without the associated side effects.
SUNSCREEN
Sunscreen is an essential anti-aging product in any good skin care routine and suite of products. There are two types of aging when it comes to your skin: Intrinsic Aging is determined by your genetics and lifestyle; Photoaging is caused by sun exposure to damaging UVA and UVB radiation. UVA rays contribute to premature skin aging and skin cancer while UVB rays result in skin inflammation and sunburn. Unprotected exposure to UVA and UVB generates reactive oxygen species (ROS), or free radicals, that are the catalysts for a cascade of reactions that damage the skin by degrading collagen and elastin, the two major structural components that maintain the rigidity of the skin. Exposure to UVA, in particular, may lead to loss of elasticity and wrinkling of the skin.
When you apply a broad spectrum sunscreen that provides protection against both UVA and UVB radiation, it reduces free radical formation by 55%. For this reason, it is critical to pair a sunscreen product with a strong antioxidant product, specifically a Vitamin C Serum. The Vitamin C Serum will deactivate the free radicals that form even though you are wearing sunscreen.
There are two basic types of sunscreen products: Broad Spectrum Chemical Sunscreens contain compounds that absorb UVA radiation (sunscreen ingredients) and UVB radiation (sunblock ingredients). The sunscreen and sunblock ingredients absorb UVA/UB radiation and dissipate the engery as heat. Mineral Sunscreens contain either Zinc Oxide and/or Titanium Dioxide. The mineral platelets essentially function as mirrors on the skin deflecting the UVA/UVB radiation.
As discussed above, wearing a broad spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher daily paired with a Vitamin C Serum protects your skin from the free radical damage that can lead to premature skin aging. Both chemical are effective at protecting your skin. Mineral sunscreens have the drawback of often leaving a white cast on your skin as both Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide are white powders that sit on the surface of your skin.
When choosing a sunscreen you’ll be looking for Broad Spectrum (protects against both UVA and UVB); Sun Protection Factor (SPF) rating of 30 or higher is the degree of protection afforded by the sunscreen; Protection Grade of UVA (PA+++ = High UVA Protection) as important criteria as to how much protection you will get from the sunscreen product, particularly as it relates to the PA rating since UVA is the most damaging radiation that leads to premature aging in skin.
EXFOLIATING SERUM
Your skin is continually renewing and shedding dead skin cells. Exfoliants help removes these dead skin cells that cling to the surface and within pores. Exfoliation makes your skin appear brighter and smoother with reduced dark spots. Exfoliation also enhances the skin’s cell renewal and turnover and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Exfoliation can also enhance long-term anti-aging effects including increasing production of collagen, reducing water loss, and DNA repair. Weekly exfoliation using an Exfoliating Serum can be a nice complement to your use of a Retinol product or as a substitute to Retinol. The main type of chemical exfoliants are Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Poly Hydroxy Acids, Fruit Enzymes and Beta Hydroxy Acid.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) – Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid have been found to increase epidermal proliferation and collagen production leading to smoother looking skin and faded wrinkles. These small molecules act quickly but also present the most potential for side effects that include irritation and photo sensitization.
Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs) – Lactobionic Acid, Gluconolactone and Mandelic Acid are a new generation of natural exfoliating actives that have been scientifically proven to effectively remove dead skin cell with fewer side effects than first generation Alpha Hydroxy Acids. These relatively large molecules don’t penetrate the skin as readily as Alpha Hydroxy Acids.
Fruit Enzymes – a new generation of exfoliants that remove dead cells by enzymatically stimulating the natural shedding process – a different mechanism than PHAs or AHAs. Fruit Enzymes work by enzymatically degrading dead skin cell proteins on the surface of the skin and are the most gentle exfoliant.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (Salicylic Acid) – Salicylic Acid is oil soluble and as such penetrates the hair follicles where it will dissolve dead skin cells that plug the follicle trapping bacteria, particularly P. Acnes bacteria.
Look for an exfoliating product that contains a combination of different exfoliants as they work by different mechanisms. In general, an 8% Alpha Hydroxy Acid solution paired with PHAs and BHA provides gentle exfoliation that your skin can tolerate when used twice weekly.